Skip to content

PSF SYSTEM - high hang point
On year 1996 Per il Volo invented and produced the first harness attachment system to feature high hook-in points with low J-bar distance bars, called the PSF system.
It is today appreciated as the industry standard and most often copied by other manufacturers world wide.

ABM SYSTEM - mid pivot arms

The new 2007 Miniplane frame, allows the use of the proven PSF system or as an option the new revolutionary ABM system with pivot arms using a mid attachment point, in order to keep an excellent degree of stability, and at the same time allows for "active" pilot weight shift. Experts that have test flown this system agree that it allows great weight shift ability without the instability found on previous systems by other manufacturers.

Back in the day many motors were made with high hang points, Pap and Miniplane were the first to use lower or mid hang point arms and connection points. Now almost every manufacturer worth their salt does the same. Miniplane still have the high hang point for sale to service an older school client base.

Depends on your weight, if your over 90 kgs then a larger prop will give greater thrust however as the Miniplane design is uniquely light although the frame on the standard model is rock solid when you size it up to the large propellor the lines come very close to the frame.

 The danger here is if your not experienced at forward launchiing, i.e your technique isn’t good in a nil wind situation you stand a good chance of rubbing your lines very close to the cage on take off through what is often called a power launch.

Yes huge amounts, taking off heavily loaded r will need either more thrust or a longer run to get airborne, size your self right from the start on the right size wing for your weight and Miniplane will have almost every pilot of the ground.

Fuel mixture is 1.5 or we run ours on 1.65 and never have a problem. 75ml oil to 5 lts of super unleaded/ 150ml to 10 lts of super unleaded fuel.

Use only the best  if you can, ideally fully synthetic, the Top80 is a robust unit but  ideally whatever oil you pick try and always stick to that one as oppossed to changing brands.

Heres a good link to help with the Maths for mixing

As with all paramotors all units need to be checked  regularly due to vibration and wear,MiniPlane in Italy have some very useful links to prep and Maintenance which we've listed here

Maintenance Deadlines including Carburetor maintenance, locking torques and some handy spare parts.

Miniplane gearbox oil

Add1/2 of the contents of the oil bottle to gearbox at the timeof assembly and change oil at 10 hours usiing the other 1/2 of the oil.

The gearbox oil can be changed at 50 and a 100 hours.

Miniplane have over time pondered the whys and wherefore of coming under a reserve parachute in the unlikely event one did. They’ve opted for small with fast opening.

Well everyone is entitled to an opinion and here at Miniplane UK we say go large and as lightweight as possible. We also offer an Apco Harness because you can add a zipped side mounted pocket for reserve storage as opposed to front mounted which can be or feel a little clumsy.

Opening times on both the Gin yeti and Ozone Angel are quick although descent rates are better on the lightweight Yeti at 4.5 as opposed to 5 mtr/second and 6 with the Dudek option. The recommended Miniplane reserve is mounted to the front hangpoints as opposed to traditional paraglider shoulder points, it's the last piece you clip in. It's been like all minilanes products designed to be as simple to use as possible and is brilliantly light. Miniplane have researched having side and underseat options and have found that theses designs either inhibits airflow to the engine and therefore efficency or the ability to run with the best thrust line for take off.

Well in truth front mounted reserves conatiners are  more accessible. By sitting in your lap in flight you could use either hand to grab and throw your reserve. You might find that front mounted reserves restrict view of your pre flight checks, inhibit your run slightly but do act as a good coffee table for instruments in flight. .

Side mounted reserves are sort of out  of the way making your cockpit a little more clutter free, so making pre flight checks and running that little more comfortable, obvioulsy they limit the accesiblity of the front moutned reserve handle as it willl be either situated on one side or the other.

The recommended Miniplane reserve is mounted to the front hangpoints as opposed to traditional paraglider shoulder points, it's the last piece you clip in. It's been like all Miniplane products designed to be as simple to use as possible and is brilliantly light. Miniplane have researched having side and underseat options and have found that these designs either inhibits airflow to the engine and therefore efficency or the ability to run with the best thrust line for take off.

MIniplnae research into this is quite compelling but we apreciate if your a traditional paraglider pilot you might prefer the the shoulder option hence the Apco option for the harness. It comes down to personal choice.

Teaching full time abroad and in UK has offered up what works for some and not always for others.

In truth if you’ve never done  paragliding before and you new to paramotoring then launch will always be the more stressful time for you over your first year or so depending on how much flying you can get in outside weekends.

Paramotor wings with full Reflex have traditionally been a bit tricky in nil or very light winds to launch, not all but many. If you’ve half a mind to paraglide too then you’ll want to look at a beginners paraglider. Our recommendations are Ozone Buzz Z4 Pwr or Advance Alpha 6 as it offers some extra speed, benign take off behaviour and trimmers for use in flight like other reflexed wings. 

If you've got a wedge of flying experience or you've got the time to put into flying from qualifying then deally you want to go for a reflexed glider as they simply offer you more speed over the ground so no hanging around annoying the neighbours!

 The 19/73 is good for most prop sizes up to a 135 prop

If you don't need a large prop and you want a smaller cage, minium weight etc then the 21/71is ideal for the 115 propellor


- Lightweight, more efficient through their structural strength and generally offer more thrust up (roughly 10 percent increase) and performance plus they look great!Downsides are they are generally 30% more expensive, they don’t tend to chip but shatter although slight damage can with care be repaired. Miniplane have a designed carbon prop from Helix especially for their engines.


- Cheaper, easier to repair if you prang an end or they get damaged. They don’t offer quite as much performance but for most beginner/ intermediate pilots the difference will be less noted. It's worth also noting that wooden props are a little less like a blase compared with a Carbon prop, so new pilots to the sport might like to spend time making mistakes with a wooden prop first before advancing to a carbon one. 

Heres a great video from Miniplane UK on how to put your MiniPlane together



  • You must run-in the engine before flying.
  • Do not rev up for five minutes while warming up.
  • The running-in is over after consuming 10 liters of gas.
  • The lifespan of your engine can double with a proper running-in, while with a bad one you may damage it since the very first hours of working.
  • In the first phase of the running-in the engine must be switched on for increasing time starting from few minutes and off for the time necessary to cool.
  • While on, the engine must be gently set at different revs, starting from the lowest up to the higher.
  • Repeated revvings are unsuitable, the clutch may be surcharged.
  • After each switching off, do carefully check all the mechanic parts, bolts and knots.
  • After at least 10 minutes of work you can fly, gently,  avoiding high revs. for too a long time. 
  • After the first 30 minutes of run, do check all the bolts, knots and screws, particularly those of the engine and the prop as well. Those of the engine (bolts and knots) must be checked every 5 hours of flight.
  • At this point, you can fly. However avoid long periods of full power, and vary the throttle setting often. For heavier pilots that require more power to fly, it is recommended that 1 hour of non- flying break-in be completed before flying

Loss of Power

Engine overheating may occur while running-in, you can recognize it by a loss of power.

In this case is very dangerous to keep it on, it is better shutting off and let cooling, OR, AT LEAST SLOW DOWN BELOW 5000 RPM before applying more power

A loss of power may occur because a mixture too lean, following a wrong carburetor setting or dirty in the filter, do check for such possibilities before restarting the engine

In case of overheating it is advisable to check the head screws to verify the seal of the motor head, see locking torques. Usually a loss of seal can be perceived by dull strokes at starting or by oil leakage, once the air conveyer is removed.

Frequent Checks

After assembling the unit, before starting the engine and at regular intervals,it is recommended to check your Miniplane for possible damage. The parts frequently at risk are: the propeller, the frame and the safetynet

The  frame can be distorted if you've sqeezed it into a small car boot, in such a case you can easily see that the distance between the prop's edge and the frame differs from point to point when turning it (do this with the engine off and by slowly hand turning the propeller). When the engine is on, because of vibrations, the propeller may touch the frame which can result  in  permanent damage such as a breakage; in case of a light damage, you can try to solve the problem by hand pulling the frame to its original shape; for big repairs go to a workshop, if in doubt do replace the frame with a new one.

The strings of the guarding net must be checked because in case of breakage they may be caught by the propeller and cause a mess. any frayed lines must be immediately replaced.

The nylon net can be mended, by hand sewing with thick polyester yarn weaving two or three times in order to reach the original thickness.

The parts to be replaced must be removed by cutting them with a hot tool (a soldering will be all right) in order to melt the tip to avoid fraying.

Periodically, you must also checks the knots and verify the tension of the net, in order to avoid slackening.

To avoid fraying

All the knots of the Kevlar strings (easy recognizable because of the inner yellow fiber), must be fixed by 1/2 drops of cyanic-acrylic glue on their tips and after few seconds do cut them in the hardened portion.

Potential Engine issues


possibile cause



cold starting

mixture too rich or too poor


follow the procedures

go to "engine starting"

go to "carburetion"

air bubbles in the circuit

charge the circuit before starting the engine, go to "engine starting"

power failure to the spark

remove it and check

hot starting

mixture too poor

go to "carburetion"

after switching off when the engine is still hot

vapour look

wait few minutes or use a colder spark

different troubles

low battery or failure on the electric circuit

go to power failure

different troubles with float type carburetor

the gas from the float chamber spread on the sump

go to "engine starting"

different troubles with diaphragm carburetor

after a long resting the carburetor is "dried"

go to "engine starting"
UNEVEN POWER (high revs. power loss) AND UNSTEADY IDLING
in case these troubles show simultaneously
carburetion lean because of gas shortagecarburetiongo to "carburetion"
air suction in the fuel circuit replace pipes, filters and joints
obstructions in the fuel flow 
  • replace the gas filter
  • clean the inner filter in the carbutetor
  • clean the needle jets and fuel ways inside the carburetor

go to  carburetor maintenance

the carburetor doesn't provide enough fuel
  • clean the intake pressure hole
  • the carburetor gasket is broken or badly mounted
  • replace the diaphragms *

go to carburetor maintenance

* must be done when fuel swiftly goes back to the fuel tank when switching off the engine
carburetion lean due to an excess of aircarburetiongo to "carburetion"
fuel suction through the sump or its gaskets
  • check and waterproof by suitable products all the junctions and gaskets
  • replace the crankshaft gaskets
 carburetion too richgo to "carburetion"
  • too much oil in the mixture

  • unsuitable oil


spark plug electrodes distance 

0,5 mm (tool supplied)

distance coil / fly-wheel

0,3 ; 0,5 mm

short circuit on the switch off circuit

check thermostat (if any), the switch off button, the insulation of the coil electric wire to the terminal 


to the speed-reducer

oil lack

check the oil level

bearings or gears damaged


to the muffler

mountings or muffler manifold

fix or replace the mountings

muffler ineffectual

replace glass wool


air box disconnectet


to the propeller

 damaged by foreign bodies

fix or replace

before taking off again check the engine bolts and nuts


just started

air on the gasoline lines

increasing the RPM the engine will such off the air

Heres a great link to some issues you might have through poor or dirty fuel or slack maintenance